The Pets in the City Ultimate Guide: How to Keep Your Dog Safe (and Sane!) During Fireworks

Your complete Auckland-proof plan for turning Guy Fawkes from "Boom-pocalypse" to "Bunker-and-Chill"

 Why Your Dog Thinks the Sky is Falling (And Why We’re on Their Side)

For most Auckland dog owners, the calendar flip to November or the lead-up to Diwali and New Year's brings a familiar sense of dread. It’s the time of year when our skies light up, and our brave, happy dogs transform into trembling, terrified shadows. It’s a season less about celebration and more about damage control.

Let’s get our "polite rant" out of the way first. At Pets in the City, our official stance is simple: we’d rather fireworks were never used by the public, ever.

We’re not alone in this. We stand with the NZ SPCA, the New Zealand Veterinary Association (NZVA), and even Auckland Council, all of whom have called for a ban on the private sale and use of fireworks. The reasoning is overwhelming. The psychological terror inflicted on our pets, wildlife, and farm animals is immense. Tragically, this terror also leads to devastating physical injuries. Panicked animals are known to bolt, with one survey noting that 35 percent of horse owners reported horses breaking through fences. For those animals injured, an average of 12.5% died from their trauma or required euthanasia.

There is a glimmer of hope. As of late 2025, a new Member's Bill, the "Fireworks Prohibition Legislation Bill," has been introduced in Parliament aiming to do just that, ban private sales while still allowing for professional, notified public displays.¹¹

But until that bill becomes law, we’re on a mission. This guide is your pragmatic, judgment-free battle plan.

The real problem, as any dog owner knows, isn't just November 5th. Current New Zealand regulations only restrict the sale of fireworks to a tight four-day window (November 2–5). However, there is no limit on when people can actually light them. The NZVA correctly identifies this "sporadic use" from stockpiling as the core issue, as it makes it "difficult" for owners to "reliably plan". This guide is designed to build resilience against that very unpredictability.

Inside Your Dog's Brain on Fireworks (The "Why")

Paws-itively Terrifying: This Isn't "Just Noise"

To truly help your dog, you first need to understand why this is so terrifying. This isn't your dog being silly; it’s a deep-seated, physiological response.

• Super-Hearing, Super-Scared: A dog’s hearing is far more sensitive than ours. What sounds like a "pop" or "whistle" to you is a "discordant noise without warning" to them. It's a deafening, visceral explosion.
• The "Threat" They Can't Find: The noise and unpredictability are perceived as a direct threat. This triggers their "fight-or-flight" response, a massive physiological dump of adrenaline and stress hormones. One study on thunderstorm phobia (a very similar noise) found a 207% increase in salivary cortisol (the primary stress hormone) in affected dogs.
• Trapped and Terrified: That fight-or-flight response is screaming one thing: "RUN!". But indoors, they feel trapped with no escape from the threat. This is precisely why more dogs run away on fireworks-heavy nights than any other time of the year. They aren't "running away"; they are desperately trying to flee a threat they can't see, fight, or understand.

The Canine Panic Decoder: What to Look For

It’s crucial to know that a dog’s panic attack doesn't always involve howling or shaking. Research shows "high inter-individual variability" in other words, every dog is different. Some are "Loud Lookers" (obvious panic), but many are "Silent Screamers," suffering in ways that are easy to miss.

You must learn to spot the subtle signs before they escalate. Interestingly, while many sources list "yawning" and "lip licking" as key stress signals, one objective study that used video recordings of dogs during actual fireworks found these were not significantly associated with the event. This doesn't mean they aren't stress signals, but rather that the most reliable indicators of a phobic event are:

1. A backwards-directed ear position
2. Increased locomotion (pacing)
3. Panting when it's not hot

This table will help you decode your dog's anxiety level, from a quiet "I'm worried" to a full-blown "Mayday!"

 The Panic Decoder: From Subtle to Severe 

Operation: Fort Floof (Your "Day-Of" Battle Plan)

For a known fireworks event like Guy Fawkes Night, a clear plan is your best defence.

T-Minus 8 Hours: Morning Mission (The "Big Sniff")

A tired dog is a less-anxious dog. The goal is to expend as much physical and mental energy as possible, long before the sun sets. Plan a significant walk, run, or even better a "sniffari" (a long, meandering walk where they get to sniff everything) before the fireworks start. This surplus energy can otherwise fuel pacing and panic.

T-Minus 4 Hours: Afternoon Ops (Lockdown & Logistics)

• Batten Down the Hatches: This is non-negotiable. Walk your property and check every inch of your fence and gates. Panicked dogs and horses will charge through fences they normally respect. This isn't a casual wander; it's a terror-fuelled bolt. Secure all cat flaps so no pet can escape.
• Check the "Bling" (ID): Make sure your dog is wearing their collar with an up-to-date ID tag. Even more importantly, log in to the New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR) and double-check that your microchip details especially your phone number are 100% correct.
• The Great Dinner Debate: You'll find conflicting advice on this. Some sources say to "Feed a solid meal an hour or two prior". Others say to "Skip mealtime" to make your dog hungry and thus more interested in treat-based distractions. Both have merit. A dog with severe phobia may be too anxious to eat anyway, while a food-motivated dog will work harder for a puzzle toy if they're a bit hungry.
  
  
  • The "Pets in the City" 3rd Way: We recommend a compromise. Feed half their normal dinner, early. This prevents an empty, acidic stomach (which can add to their discomfort) but keeps their food drive high, making your "Art of Distraction" (see Part 4) far more effective.

T-Minus 1 Hour: Dusk (The Final Check-in)

• Last Toilet Break: Take your dog out for one final bathroom break before dusk, before any neighbourhood fireworks are likely to start.
• The Crucial, Non-Obvious Tip: This final break must be done ON-LEASH. Yes, even in your own fully-fenced Auckland backyard. An unexpected, early firework is all it takes to send a terrified dog smashing through a gate.
• Bring Them Inside: This is the #1 tip from the SPCA and every other expert: Keep. Them. Indoors.
• Administer Support: If you are using vet-prescribed anti-anxiety medications, herbal supplements, or calming chews, now is the time to give them. Do it well before the first boom. It is "much easier to prevent a fearful reaction than to reverse one".

Building the ultimate "bunker" (your dog's safe den)

This is your single most effective tool. But it comes with one non-negotiable rule.

Rule #1: DO IT RIGHT

A den built on the night of Guy Fawkes is not a safe space. It's just a scary new box you're forcing them into while they think the world is ending. It will fail.

The "bunker" must be built in advance. It must become your dog’s voluntary, happy, safe place before it’s ever needed for a stressful event.

Location, Location, Location

Choose a spot your dog already likes to retreat to. Ideally, this should be in an internal room, away from exterior doors and windows. Don't be afraid to get creative: many dogs naturally choose unconventional spots like an internal bathroom, a walk-in closet, a (dry) bathtub, or even a basement if you have one. Respect their choice.

How to Build "Fort Floof"

1. The Base: A standard dog crate is the perfect "frame". If you don't use a crate, the space under a sturdy table or in a closet works perfectly.
2. DIY Sound-Dampening (The "Audio-Engineering" Hack): Let's be realistic: you cannot "soundproof" a dog crate against the low-frequency energy of fireworks. The goal is to dampen and muffle the sharp, high-pitched sounds. Cover the crate on at least three sides with heavy, dense materials: old duvets, "heavy moving blankets", or thick blankets.
   
   • Pro-Tip: For extra sound diffusion, one creative tip is to cable-tie egg boxes to the outside of the crate before covering it with the duvet.
3. Make it a "Happy Place," Not a Prison:
   • Make it cozy with their favourite bed and an unwashed item of your clothing (like a t-shirt) to provide a familiar, comforting scent.
   • The Training: This is the most important part. For the next few weeks, feed your dog all their meals inside the den. Give them all their best, high-value treats (like a Kong or chew) only in the den.
   • Prime the Space: When you first build the den, spray the bedding with an Adaptil (DAP) pheromone spray. This chemically signals to their brain, "this is a safe space."
   • The Golden Rule: Never, ever force your dog into the den. And never pull them out. Make sure all family members, especially children, know that when the dog is in their den, they are to be left completely alone.

 The Art of Distraction (Drown, Mask, and Chew)

On the night, your job is to manage your dog's sensory environment.

Step 1: Block the Flashes

This is the easy part. Close all doors, windows, and (most importantly) draw your curtains and blinds. The bright, unpredictable flashes of light are a major anxiety trigger.

Step 2: Create a "Wall of Sound"

You can't eliminate the booms, but you can camouflage them. Muffle the sharp, scary noises by covering them with a blanket of "safe" noise. Turn on a white noise machine, a fan, or the TV.

• Pro-Tip: Don't just play any music. Research and advocacy groups specifically recommend dog-calming classical music (like the "Through a Dog's Ear" series) or the "Soft Sounds for Dogs" playlist on Spotify, which is designed to soothe anxious pets.Some owners even report success by playing loud, rumbling action movies (like "Band of Brothers") to blend the explosions into the background. 

Step 3: Engage the Brain and Mouth

This is where your "half-dinner" strategy pays off. Distraction is key. Provide high-value, long-lasting "self-soothe" activities. This means anything that encourages sniffing, licking, or chewing, which are all naturally stress-relieving behaviours.

• Your Toolkit: Have a stuffed Kong (filled with peanut butter or their half-dinner), a LickiMat, a snuffle mat, or a long-lasting chew ready to deploy. This gives their anxious energy a productive, calming outlet.

 Step 4: Your Vibe Affects Your Tribe (The Owner Factor)

This is the most nuanced part of the night. Dogs are incredibly sensitive to our emotions.

• Old-school thinking told owners to "ignore your dog, or you'll 'reward' the fear". This has been proven wrong.
• Modern, correct thinking is to stay home and be a "calm anchor" for your pet.
• Here is the perfect, nuanced advice from the SPCA: "If your pet seeks you out it is fine to calmly comfort them but if they prefer to retreat and be left alone it is important to respect this".

Your job is to be a calm anchor, not an anxious fixer. Don't fuss, coo, or say "it's okay, it's okay!" in a high-pitched, worried voice this just confirms their suspicion that there is something to be afraid of. Instead, sit on the floor, act relaxed, read a book, and let them lean on you or cuddle if they choose to.

And the #1 rule: NEVER, EVER punish or scold a dog for being afraid. Yelling at a shaking, panting dog for hiding or having an accident will only "increase their stress and worsen the situation". 

The "Calm-Me-Down" Toolkit

If your dog needs more than just a bunker, the pet store aisles can be overwhelming. Here’s our honest review of the most common non-prescription aids you'll find in New Zealand.

1. The "Hug-in-a-Vest" (Thundershirts / Compression Wraps)

• How it Works: These vests provide gentle, constant pressure around your dog's torso. It's the same principle as "swaddling a baby" or using a weighted blanket, and it has a clinically-shown calming effect on the nervous system.
• The Pros: It's drug-free, and many owners report dramatic, near-instant results for anxiety.
• The Cons & Warnings: It won't work for every dog. It must be introduced gradually, don't just strap it on them for the first time during a firework display. Most importantly: watch for overheating, especially during a hot Auckland summer, and always check with your vet before using one on elderly dogs or dogs with known heart conditions.

 2. "Good Vibes" in a Bottle (Adaptil / Pheromone Diffusers)

• How it Works: Adaptil products (diffusers, sprays, and collars) release a synthetic copy of the "Dog Appeasing Pheromone" (DAP). This is the "safe" signal a mother dog produces to comfort her puppies. It's odorless to humans and sends a chemical message: "You are safe here".
• The Pros: It's easy, passive, and has great reviews for helping with general anxiety.
• Our Verdict: While many studies support its use, some critiques point out that many of these studies are funded by the company that makes the product. Therefore, it's best seen as "one piece of a jigsaw, not the definitive solution". One owner noted it "didn't work" for their dog's severe phobia. We highly recommend using the Adaptil Spray to "prime" your dog's new den, but don't expect a plug-in diffuser to be a magic wand on its own.

When to Call in the BIG GUNS (Your Vet)

For some dogs, this isn't just "fear." It's a genuine, debilitating phobia. This is when your dog is inconsolable, destructive, or at risk of self-injury. As one owner who had tried everything put it: "I have tried every single calming supplement... None of them worked. Actual meds prescribed by the vet behaviorist did".

If this is your dog, you must see your vet. But there are two non-negotiable rules.

Rule #1: This is a "Weeks in Advance" Job

You must see your veterinarian well in advance of fireworks season. You cannot call on November 5th. Some medications, like serotonin reuptake inhibitors, can take several weeks to build up to an effective level. 

Rule #2: The "Trial Run" is Non-Negotiable

This is a critical safety tip from vets: You must give your dog a test dose on a calm day, well before the stressful event. Why? To check for side effects. A small number of dogs can have the opposite reaction and become more agitated. The last thing you want is to discover your dog has a bad reaction to a new drug during a fireworks display.

The Long-Term Fix: "Project Next-Year"

The only "cure" for a true phobia is a long-term desensitization and counterconditioning program. This involves playing recordings of fireworks at a barely audible level while your dog is relaxed or eating. Then, over weeks and months, you gradually increase the volume.

Warning: Do NOT "flood" your dog. Playing the sounds loudly to "get them used to it" is cruel and will backfire, making the phobia worse. This is a "low-and-slow" process best done with the help of a vet or behaviorist.

The Auckland Pet Parent's Emergency Kit

As a city-based company, we know the unique challenges of Tāmaki Makaurau. Here is your local emergency plan.

Know Your Local Rules

• Auckland Council has specific bylaws. It is ILLEGAL to light fireworks on any council-controlled land. This includes all parks, beaches, forests, conservation areas, and even the berm or footpath on your street.
• Maunga are Closed: The Tūpuna Maunga Authority closes public access to 14 volcanic cones (maunga) across Auckland during the Guy Fawkes period to protect them from fires.
• Fireworks are only allowed on private property.

 Plan B: Checklist for "The Great Escape"

If the absolute worst happens and your dog panics and bolts, you will be in a panic too. Print this checklist and put it on your fridge.

1. FIRST CALL (Report Lost): Call Auckland Council Animal Management on 09 301 0101.This is your priority. Report your dog as "lost".
2. UPDATE MICROCHIP: Go to the New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR) at animalregister.co.nz. Log in and officially mark your pet as LOST.
3. CHECK "FOUND" LISTS (Online):
   • co.nz: This is the public-facing service for the NZCAR. The SPCA and other shelters list found animals here automatically.
   • Auckland Council Animal Shelters on Facebook: They post photos of impounded and lost dogs.
4. START CALLING (Phone):
   • SPCA Auckland: 09 256 7300.
   • Call all local vet clinics in your area.
5. GO IN PERSON: As soon as you can, physically visit the Auckland Council animal shelters and your local SPCA. Your description of a "brown fluffy dog" means nothing over the phone.

Your Auckland "In-Case-of-Emergency" Phone List

 Let's Aim for a Quieter Aotearoa

You made it through the guide. You're now equipped with a plan to build a "bunker," manage the environment, and advocate for your dog's needs. The goal is preparation, not perfection.

But we want to end by reiterating that this entire, exhaustive guide is a "fix" for a problem that shouldn't have to exist. The stress it places on owners and the sheer "psychological torture" it inflicts on our animals is predictable and preventable.

We ask our "Pets in the City" community to be part of the change. Support the advocacy of the SPCA, NZVA, and other groups calling for a ban on private sales. Be aware of the Fireworks Prohibition Legislation Bill and make your voice heard. Let's work towards a future where Guy Fawkes Night is something we can all enjoy safely, professionally, and quietly.

Stay safe, stay calm, and give your dog a cuddle from us. We've got this, Auckland.